The Continental Divide part 2: Waterton Lakes and Glacier National Park

I celebrated my last night in Jasper with a fabulous meal and was getting ready to return to Calgary by bus the next day.  Because of the forest fires near the town of Jasper, ash was falling for a few hours and most people in the Whistlers campground were concerned. At 10.30pm, everyone got an alert on their mobile phone to evacuate the park. In fact, the whole town was asked to evacuate. There was a long queue of traffic as there was only one highway that was open to leave the city. I had only seen this armageddon type situation in Hollywood movies. However, unlike the movies, there was no drama. People were waiting quietly even though it took 3 hours for some people to leave the city.

Evacuation from the campground
From inside my bus

The city officials had organised a bus for those who did not have a vehicle. Due to air quality, it was suggested that the 8 cyclists at the campground also took a bus. We left around 1 or 2 am and it took two hours for us to leave the city. Thankfully, we were given a bus that accommodated all our bicycles too. We arrived in Valemount at 4am, 124kms away, and that place was overwhelmed with people and vehicles. We were given snacks and a warm place (a sports hall) to spend a few hours. The local villagers had heard this evacuation and volunteered at the local church to provide sandwiches and food which was quite moving. I think the kindness you see at these times shows the natural order.

Canadian Prairies (South of Calgary)
Iconic Prince of Wales lodge at the Waterton Lakes National Park

The next day, Parks Canada had organised buses to move people to big cities. Six of the eight cyclists took the bus to Calgary, a 14 hour journey and we were welcomed by some news cameras. It was a remarkable effort by the authorities to help everyone. Two days later I learnt that about 30% of the city was destroyed by the fire. It was quite emotional to see the mayor of the town breakdown into tears in front of the news cameras.

On arrival in Calgary, I was invited my Jeyatha and Vasant to spend a night with them in Calgary, whom I met in my previous trip. It was lovely to connect with them again, need less to mention the home made South Indian food. 

At Waterton Lakes Campground
Chief Mountain Pass (USA-Canada Border)

The next four days were cycling in the Canadian Prairies. On the second day I had tailwinds and averaged 30kmph the subsequent two days were the opposite, I averaged 13kmph. It was hard cycling in the strong crosswinds, a test for perseverance, which took several hours but it was worth it. I arrived in Waterton Lakes National park where the campground was just a few feet away from the lake. I had the benefit of a spot with a splendid view of the lakes. But the winds were unforgiving, I thought my tent was going to crash but it survived. I took rest day here to recover form the previous two days difficult ride.

A remote border (only open in the summer)
Glacier National park, Montana

On leaving Waterton Lakes I took a road that was going over the mountain, where there were no winds and the road was quiet. The Chief Mountain border crossing was open only in summer and the border crossing was smooth. But as soon as I descended the mountains, into Montana, the winds were strong again. 

From Rising Sun Campground it was a 20km ascent to the top of Logan pass on the Going-to-the-Sun road which has an interesting history. This road does not have shoulder lane and has restrictions and pass requirements to control the traffic. But luckily, being on the cycle allows one to stop wherever, to take pictures, to the envy of those on four wheels. The views were quite dramatic, sharp peaks rising above the pine forests, with patches of snow and the ice melt, coming down as water falls. A thoroughly enjoyable ride. 

Near the top of Logan Pass
The river along the descent of Logan pass
When there is nothing to do…
A customary photo to justify the title of this tour

I am now well into my cycling routines, looking for coffee stops, planning my stays, checking out the elevation profile and so on. This is as enjoyable as I expected, at least so far.

Route: Calgary City cetre – Calgary South East (26km) – Nanton campground (72) – Granum (60) – Pincher Creek (75) – Waterton Lakes Campground (68.2) – Leaning tree campground (65) – Rising Sun campground (26) – Apgar campground (67) – Kalispell (62)

Comments

3 responses to “The Continental Divide part 2: Waterton Lakes and Glacier National Park”

  1. Zoe avatar
    Zoe

    Great Trip

  2. Zie avatar
    Zie

    Great trip! Stay safe

  3.  avatar
    Anonymous

    Just love reading your adventures

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