The Continental Divide part 3: Crossing Montana

From Kalispell, I was headed south via the Flathead lake, over three days, to arrive at Missoula. After Missoula I followed the interstate 90 (I-90) mostly for about 10 days. Montana is the fourth biggest state and after cycling about 1000 kilometres I had only crossed half of Montana, it seems. 

SKQ dam, near Big Arm, Montana
Georgetown lake, between Drummond and Butte

Cycling on the interstate is legal in Montana but not necessarily pleasant, the constant whizzing noise of the traffic gets irritating after a while. Luckily, frontage road runs parallel to this but this frontage road disappears when there is a big pass or a cliff. I would have to detour via some remote places, which is often scenic. Georgetown lake was one of them, very pretty. 

The route took me through several remote villages and towns that offered an insight into the rural side of Montana: Drummond, Butte, Three Forks, Bozeman, Livingston, Big Timber. Instead of going straight to Yellowstone from Bozeman, I went east, on a big loop, in order to do the Beartooth highway (a big pass) from the east. I am writing this from the bottom of this. On the other side of this pass is the Yellowstone National park which I am eagerly looking forward to.

Sunset at Cardwell Campground
Montana was never boring

Montana, as the name implies is full of mountains, the highway navigating the moutains runs through the valley floors. Even driving on the interstate in Montana is quite scenic.

Food in rural America was a bit of an issue, as my palate is quite used to flavors. The steakhouses in the villages offer burgers which I got tired of very quickly. Vegetables are such a rarity that seeing a banana got me excited! 

On two occasions, I came across cafes that deserve a mention. These were run by people of some strict religious followings. The staff, often young, were immaculately dressed with matching manners. They grew everything required and sustain themselves without the need for much from the outside world. The quality of the food was just fabulous. I had enormous respect, although I would not want to have prolonged conversations for the fear of being handed out religious pamphlets. Although, one could respectfully disagree, I would not have the time, so I expressed my sincere respect and thanks and left.

At the Grizly rescue centre, outside Bozeman
Yellowstone river

On the subject of interactions, I had the joy of interacting with people of various political persuasions. Hearing directly from people makes it more interesting than reading from news magazines. Even though, I could not agree with everything I heard, I enjoyed listening and challenging politely where possible. A discussion with a French cyclist (Green Party local leader) and another camper from NJ of strict religious persuasion went for hours but it lefts us all satisfied. This open dialogue enriched all three of us. It was not all about my cycling, said my fellow cyclist! 

Bottom of Beartooth highway, outside Red Lodge
Perry’s campground at Red Lodge – Cabin stay, a little treat

Thanks to my Warmshowers host Alan, who took me to the SKQ dam near Flathead lake and enlightening me with the local history and also the private boat ride with his friend Deborah. I felt very special and thoroughly enjoyed the conversations. 

I was greatly inspired by another Warmshowers host, Ethel MacDonald, who at 82 is very active in hosting touring cyclists. I was very moved by her activism, to help the minorities and also her commitment to the environment. Hats off to Ethel.

Next up: Yellowstone National park, Grand Teton National park.

Route: Kalispell – Big arm (63) – Ravalli (74) – Missoula (58) – Drummond (93) – Lodgepole campground (60) – Butte KOA (70) – Cardwell campground (70) – Three forks KOA (56) – Bozeman (56 ) – Livingston campground (40) – Grey cliff KOA (75) – Columbus (58) – Red lodge (74)

Comments

One response to “The Continental Divide part 3: Crossing Montana”

  1. Ryan avatar
    Ryan

    Awesome stuff and the way to experience America!

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